Enjoy it now, or cellar for a few more years. No need to decant before serving. Champagne is a region steeped in unshakeable traditions, yet ninth-generation vintner Michel Loriot has found room for incredible creativity in his wine-making. Remarkably, during a visit to the winery, it may be possible to hear classical music wafting upwards from the cellar. The compositions of Vivaldi, Mozart, Brahms and Elgar all play a part in the fermentation process, gently rocking the lees and subtly influencing the wine's structure and proteins, according to the hypothesis known in French as "protéodie". This wine is crafted from 100% Meunier, harvested from select parcels within Champagne and stirred into life by the vibrations of classical compositions. It is a "Blanc des Noirs" sparkling wine, pale yellow in colour and bearing a light, fluffy mousse. The nose is generous and youthful, bursting with aromas of green apple, lemon peel, buttered toast and hints of molasses, which is followed by an undeniable vigour on the palate. The acidity is vibrant and well-balanced, driving along flavours of tropical fruit, citrus, liquorice and savoury herbs. Nutty and yeasty notes are also present, along with a chalky minerality - it is a wonderfully complex and slightly eccentric taste of Champagne. Pair this wine with aged cheeses, vegetable tempura, mushrooms and The Best of Vivaldi, playing on a nearby speaker.