Riesling kalkofen smaragd 2022 (FJ Gritsch)

Cellar for up to 20 years. Decanting is optional, up to an hour before serving. Working out of a 13th-century building in the heart of Spitz, the winery FJ Gritsch manages to capture all of the majesties of the Danube River with its incredible Riesling and Gruner Veltliner cuveés. The Gritsch family have been making wine here since 1799, and are now led into the 21st century by Franz-Josef, who carries seven generations of wine-making knowledge with him. This is a single-vineyard Riesling, sourced from Kalkofen, on the very edge of the Wachau Valley. It is a steep and stony site, approximately two kilometres from the banks of the Danube. The conditions and soils here are far from ideal, but this has resulted in marvellously concentrated grapes, rich in minerality. This wine’s depth is already apparent on the bouquet, which exhibits notes of tropical fruit, ripe peach, bundles of citrus and hints of dried ginger. This expands into a rich palate, replete with wiry acidity and a stony minerality, which balances out the fruity power. Under the lemon and stone fruits, look for notes of candied orange peel, raisin and crystallised ginger. This is a full, deep and well-balanced wine, perfect for longer-term cellaring. Pair it with hummus dishes, white meats, or some salty seaside cuisine.